Cotton Versus Polyester– Does Material Matter?
If asked the difference between cotton and polyester, the standard and correct answer would be that cotton is a natural material and polyester is man-made. But is there more to it? What are the implications for using one over the other? What is the environmental and sustainability impact of each material, and should we be talking about it more? The team at The Clip certainly think so, and they were amazed at how much effort was needed to find a cotton lining alternative, instead of the abundant/standardised polyester lining options, for their 100% wool coats. So, which would you choose?
Cotton is naturally grown in sunny, humid climates. For good germination rates, the soil needs to be above 15°C and the air temperature in the high 20s. Cotton needs to grow for a long period without frosts and with irrigation regulated. The yield of the cotton depends on these environmental factors. Cotton is then picked, these days by heavy industrial machines, and then goes through a cleaning, separating, and weaving process similar to wool. A carding machine forms the fibres into a long rope, and off it goes to the textile factory.
Cotton is naturally water repellent if the waxy layer is not removed during the cleaning process. It has tough, resistant qualities due to its cellular structure, yet it is soft to the touch. While it can shrink during the first wash and stretch over time, it is breathable and absorbent making it a perfect fibre for wearing and for home textiles. It has anti-static properties and is extremely hypo-allergenic; sounds like the perfect fibre, so why bring in a man-made fibre such as polyester?
Polyester is, essentially, a chemical reaction made from petroleum, air, and water. A thermoplastic concoction that is stronger than cotton, yet soft. It won’t shrink or stretch out of shape. However, it is hydrophobic, making it non-absorbent and non-breathable, and it will leave the wearer feeling clammy on a hot day. Polyester is not sustainable due to its man-made composition, nor is it biodegradable. However, inroads are being made to recycle polyester clothing by melting it down and creating new polyester fabrics; it’s just not happening in New Zealand, yet.
On the topic of biodegradable products, it takes cotton around five months to decompose, and around a staggering 200 years for polyester. While this in itself is alarming, polyester materials in landfill also leach harmful chemicals into the soil – we are talking hundreds of tonnes every year into our New Zealand landfills. And the facts keep piling up: polyester can release tens of thousands of plastic particles into our waterways every wash, and it carries the unflattering badge of creating more than double the carbon footprint of a similar cotton product.
A damming and less than appealing breakdown of just one of the many materials created by mankind. So why choose polyester or a polyester blend for clothing? From a clothes manufacturing point of view, a cotton/polyester love match will last longer – less pilling, less fading, no wrinkles, and it’s a sight more durable than a 100% cotton material. Performance wise, the blend is 50% more breathable and absorbent than a 100% polyester alternative; so the best of both worlds can exist. Removing the larger issues of sustainability and our world health, these properties secure the blend as an attractive fibre for designers and manufacturers alike. So why has The Clip chosen 100% cotton for their wool coat lining?
Choosing cotton over polyester for the lining of The Clip coats was a non-negotiable. Believing that natural fibres that are sustainable, biodegradable, and with excellent properties should be at the forefront of everyone’s mind. Through looking out on the farm and taking a stand that convenience shouldn’t outweigh nature. That the coats as a key piece, are designed to take the wearer through the decades, is something of a commodity to value, cherish, and look after. That if the time is not right now, then when will it be.
After imparting this knowledge, where do you sit? Will you consider purchasing cotton over polyester? Will you take an extra moment to read the label so you understand and know what is sitting against your skin? Will you purchase with more care, spending more on quality and buying less – science says you look after a piece more carefully if it is of higher value.
Sustainability is not the new black, it’s a necessity for the health and wealth of the environment.
What will you do…?